Hyundai Feature: Drivetrain Noises And Wheel Bearing Replacement - Page 2 of 2

Hyundai Feature: Drivetrain Noises And Wheel Bearing Replacement

Don't let customers lead you down the wrong diagnostic path. While wheel-bearing noise is one of the toughest problems for customers to describe, says Import Specialist Contributor Bob Dowie, it's not unusual for it to come on so gradually that the customer may not even notice it until you mention it after an unrelated road test.

REPLACEMENT STEPS

1. With the bearing carrier on the bench, the first step is to ­remove the hub from the bearing. Whether you use a press or hub tool to accomplish this step, you’ll likely end up with the outer inner bearing race on the hub.

  a. All the factory information suggests removing the race with a puller but, in practice, we know how difficult it can be to get the puller ears or bearing plate in the space provided, if any is provided at all. You can use a sharp chisel in an attempt to wedge the race over and, more than likely, you’ll be spending some time cleaning up the burrs.

  b. Another method is to use an air chisel against the bearing surface of the race with the hub held firmly in a vice, and drive the race away from the hub, allowing for removal. As always, wear proper eye and hand protection, and be aware of any bystanders when chiseling.

2. Removing the bearing from the carrier is not an issue; remove the snap ring and press or withdraw the old bearing. Be careful removing the snap ring. It’s not usually included with the bearing and trying to force it with snap ring pliers could leave you with 80% of the ring in the housing and no way to compress it for removal.

If you don’t see the whole ring come loose in the housing when using the pliers, take some time with a small chisel and/or punch to loosen the ring in the groove. It won’t take long; certainly less time than it takes to remove the broken ring and get one from the dealer.

3. Before you start the reassembly process, inspect and clean the parts. Look at the hub to be sure there isn’t a “step” on the shaft where the bearing rides. And, if you haven’t already done it, clean up the bearing bore in the housing, paying particular attention to the snap ring area where rust tends to build up.

4. When assembling, give your tools a break and apply a light coat of lubricant to the OD of the bearing and the housing before installing the bearing and snap ring.

5. Before installing the hub, be sure to install any shields that are behind the hub. We are warned not to press on the outboard inner bearing (that doesn’t change) as the race has to be supported as the hub is installed; this is where the hub tools excel in the adapters provided. We find it easiest to have the hub on the press table and press the bearing carrier onto the hub, making sure the races are fully seated.

6. Reinstalling the knuckle will present no problems. Clean and lube the splines on the axle and hub, remembering that the outer CV joint spline being fully seated is what holds the bearing together. If there is a convex washer under the axle nut, it should be assembled with the convex surface outward (inside of washer higher). As the final step in the bearing replacement job, torque the axle nut to the recommended level. It has a wide span of 148-192 ft.-lbs., but it will let you get a better feel that the bearing and hub are properly seated, rather than running it down with the impact gun.

You’ll find a bearing and hub assembly on the rear of the Elantra. Again, there should be no surprises on the nuts and bolts of this job, but be careful when estimating the job. Rear bearing and hub ­assemblies usually require less labor than the front, where the hub has to be separated.

The factory info has us removing the rear carrier on the Elantra to gain access to the bearing retainer bolts, increasing the time required. Again, good work habits pay dividends. Take the time to clean the parts to ensure that the bearing assembly is fully seated in the knuckle when you torque the bolts that retain it.

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