On this model, the fuel rail does not have to be removed. Just relieve the pressure on the system and disconnect the feed and return lines. Unplug the injectors and be sure not to lose the plug gaskets (See Photo 8).

While not necessary on some models, it’s easy to remove the cooling fan assembly, which gives you a lot more room to work.

 

If equipped, the EGR tube and EGR temperature sensor will need to be disconnected. Also disconnect the throttle position sensor. (See Photo 9).

Remove the upper intake bolts and loosen the lower intake bolts. The bottom bolt holes are slotted, so the bolts do not have to be removed. This makes assembly much easier.

There is also a bracket under the intake that will need to be removed before the oil trap can be removed (See Photo 10).

 

We are now ready to remove the two bolts that hold the oil trap to the block (See Photo 11).

Disconnect the hoses and remove the oil trap. This one wasn’t the worst, but it was bad enough. The lower port was plugged only halfway. This is the passage that goes down into the oil pan (See Photo 12).

If it’s plugged, the oil pan should be removed to properly clean the passage.

Our car had 160,000 miles on it, and all the hoses were very hard and brittle. We replaced the oil trap and all the hoses and clamps going to it (See Photo 13). There’s nothing worse than having to go in and replace them later.

You will need the engine serial number to order the correct parts. The serial number is located on the timing cover (See Photo 14).

Clean the passages in the block, being careful not to push any debris into the engine block.

 

Once the oil trap and related hoses are in place, the intake manifold can be replaced. Photo 15 shows the lower intake bolts holding the gasket in place to ease installation.

Reconnect the EGR tube and temperature sensor. Install the cooling fan and reconnect the fuel rail.

Once everything is back together, I recommend degreasing the engine and adding dye to check for any persistent gasket or seal leaks, which you can then repair.

The total cost for parts for this repair was about $150. Labor for the 850 and s70 models is between three and four hours, depending on whether it’s a turbo or not. The s80s are four to five hours depending on whether it’s a turbo or not. Not having to warranty leaking oil seals and gaskets? Priceless — for you and your customer.